|the cove where we've been surfing on the |
far end of the point break
My brain was working so hard on the checklist, I'd pitch over the side of the board before I got halfway through it. But as I've surfed a little more, it's clear that so many of those things don't matter. The wave is going to come, the board is going to catch the wave. All I have to do is put my feet underneath me. Everything else falls in place from there. The list is reduced to one thing, the only thing I can actually control.
So - for a little surfer zen this morning - I think that's true of life. So often we have these lists of 1000 things that we think we have to manage when, in fact, there are really only one or two things we can control. And if we do those right, everything else falls into place.
I know I promised surfing pictures - sorry, no dice. There's a problem inherent in that promise which is that none of us want to get out of lineup to take pictures from the beach. Why be taking pictures when you can be surfing? Maybe I'll get some snaps today - but probably not :) Instead, check out the Pavones Internet cafe. Awesome.