Sunday, January 23, 2011

the last surf

sunset in pavones january 22

We just had our last surf session of the trip.  Waves were about waist high and the rides were about 300 yards, which means 20 minutes of paddling to get back into position.  What an amazing experience this has been.

That said, starting from the top, my litany of war wounds goes like this ...
- neck hurts from looking up off the board at waves and up in the trees at animals
- nose and forehead are completely sunburned
- shoulders and arms ache and feel like rubber at the same time (an odd sensation)
- ribcage and hips are bruised from laying on the board
- elbows are bruised and have cuts on them (not sure why)
- rear end is sunburned
- thighs are bruised from hitting the rails of the surfboard as I fell off (often)
- knees have huge bruises on them from kneeling on the board
- feet have little cuts all over and are sore from walking on rocks

sunset in pavones, january 22

My husband is wisely making me a rum and coco lite as I write this.  And I wouldn't trade a single bruise, ache or cut for the world right now.

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